Your Momma is a Sallie part III bases

XVIII Legion

Creating masters for bases.

         Using the Warmaster base size as a gauge. The defensive line was curved out to match or fit. Then art store course grit paste increased the ground level.

         Next each was soaked in poly strain mom had kicking around. The dent stone and course grit are poruos in nature. They need an oil based liquid to absorb and lock them down. This will be the easiest way the cast them. Otherwise you would ruin the mold trying to get them out. I do not expect them to survive the molding process.

          The bases were rubber cemented to plexi. Then a wall of legos built around and rubber cemented in place.

          It is more than likely they will not survive the molding process. At least I don't expect them to and I was right.  The picture above is after de-molding. You can see some were damaged exiting the mold.

SmoothOn OO25 is the rubber of choice.

Terrain boards, Cons, & the Future part IV

         Straight road. FW can suck me. Why did they not take the 5 minute extra to make the dam things square.

2 of the Original tiles. The 3rd the road don't line up. in the end they will all connect.

1st new tile.

         There are enough roads casted to finish out this tile. My father come every day to visit. He board and thinks it is funny to move the roads around. The day I start to attach them I will need to lock him out!

Ye Old Historian

The first ruined built insert. Insert A1

2nd Ruined insert A2

3rd ruined insert A8

         All the ruined inserts will be weathered at the same time as the boards. In this way the battle damage will match.

3D printed building from eBay. They are much better than expected!

Your momma is a Sallie part II

XVIII Legion

I have roughly a 3rd of the cleaned up and mounted on sticks. Today all were based coated and first highlight. Tomorrow I will finish them. 

The resin Spartan was an easy one to open the front hatch.

A few super heavies awaiting the final scheme.

Masters for the bases are in the rubber.
         I haven't done this since 2004. I made custom bases for my 40K Rough Riders. I took a copy of a 28mm FW road and cut my bases from it. This may not work. I am working from memory.
        Dent Stone is soft making it easy to work with. After the models were made. Copies are produced in Dent Stone. Tomorrow when it is fully hardened, I will start to shape them.

3D printing

       Both of the old printers were sold off. They had to go as parts and consumables were past the point of a new printer. I sold one through the FB user group. The other went on eBay. I took about two week to unload them both.
       With the coin I got from the sales, I was easily able to get a new photon. Creeping on eBay for 3 weeks got a Photon S for 250 new.

       Sadly the "S" forces you to use their software package. Which was a pain to use after Chitubox. But it has the dual rail Z and machined flat build plate. This is the first print I have ever had where you plug it in and it prints. I think the dog could run it.

Working on get the ratio right for Rhino and Land Raider doors in the Z. Thickness to fill the hole where they go Vs surface detail.

Terrain boards, Cons, & the Future part III

The Forge World Games Workshop battle board.

        This build always seemed far easier than what it turned out to be. From the original idea to what I got was very different. I went overboard and started covering entire tiles with roads.

         The number of times I laid down and then ripped up the Forge World roads. As the FW norm the roads are not square. Not even close. If I were to start from the very beginning I would square the roads first. Too late now!
        I rushed to completed anything, something for a Con. And that is what I got. The half city, half forest was a half assed deal. It never became what I had envisioned.
       After playing on it, the raised roads became a distraction. Also my grasp of Ground Scale & Area Terrain Vs Playability improved to clear as mud.
     
       







Going forward;
         I will expand the city. Lose the forest. Ensure this time that all the roads interconnect. Then paint and repair all the chips. The buildings will no longer be counter sunk.

        Right away problems. Of course I don't have enough roads. No problem I have rubber for them and some resin left over. Part A of the resin's cap is bonded on.


Update; new resin ordered.

I had to cut and rip it off. Part B looked a little funny coming out of the bottle. Only time will tell.

I had to finish off what was left. There was no way to reseal the bottle. Nor did I have anything I come put it in. The molds available right away were the bases. Extra bases never hurt, right?

        Well, while that mess runs on hope and new resin coming one day. I started to create inserts for between the roads. There was some brown paper kicking around from the last magazine delivery. That was used to create a pattern for each hole. (roads are not square. each hole is different) 

The orientation and hole was noted. Then the pattern was used to cut out plastic card. This will create a flat surface across the city. Each insert will be built up and buildings attached. The inserts will allow for a rapid set up. Every insert will get a custom foot print increasing heights above the city's base elevation.

Those holes where road damage, blasts, or ruins exist have a very thin plastic card mounted below. All these insert will be occupied be damaged structures.

Terrain boards, Cons, & the Future part II

The Forge World Games Workshop battle board.

         I never planned on touching this one, this year. Being quarantined changed many plans. In the game with Todd, I pulled out the Forge World City board. Long ago I noted it was chipped and in need of repair. The buildings are also chipped. With it out and unpacked and with time on my hands, it is time to repair and repaint all those chips.

        The current state is damaged, but repairable. The board needs two tiles reattached. The roads and sidewalks are chipped. And about 60% of the buildings are in need of a touch up.

        The buildings are first up. They are the easiest. I need space to work on the tiles. Once done they can be packed away.

 All touched up

Awaiting touch up

No touch ups needed.

They all got knocked out, boxed up, and place in their usual storage spot. On to the tiles.