Regimental Fire and Fury repainting and paint

 

        There are a number of dudes that will require repainting. Some that need to be stripped. A few new dudes to kit out the armies. I have started with the Union. Why? I am on the road this month and the Union's color palette is smaller, more limited, than the South's.

Paints

         I am using mostly Foundry paints. Out of all the paints on the market, they are the best. They are not easy to get. I ordered a set way back in 2011. They have been all over the world with me. GW and Model Color do not like to fly. Never had that problem with Foundry. Never had one go bad or dry out. Never had to replace one! Just like all the other paints, I drop in 3 22 cal airgun pellets as shakers. 

         You could buy the ACW range of paints from Foundry. The set contains all you would ever want in the Foundry 3 color system. I did not, nor am I using those colors. The ones I have are the ones I am using. I would recommend that you purchase the entire range of skin tones. 

          Consider yourself warned! Foundry paints are not cheap. They are 3ish pounds stirling a pot without shipping. You can purchase the pots as singles. You can also purchase the pots from any of the HMGS Cons. 

         None of the miniatures are getting the 28mm experience. That would take a life time to paint them. This is a speed painting exercise. No shading. No highlight. No dry brushing. The plan is to block in the colors and dip them in Army painter strong tone.

         Why strong tone? The dudes have been on campaign, marching endlessly, camping outside. Pretty sure their wasn't a laundry service. I want dirty looking. Plus the dip does 50% of the work for you. The dip also protects them. The game will always be hosted inhouse or at a Con. They will take a beating!

        Why 124C North American Flesh for a skin tone? The boys live outside all day, every day. The sun will bake them. And they would be a dirty bunch of dudes as they eat dust on the march.

The paints used are;

Foundry 66B for the jackets

Foundry 76B for the pants

Foundry 72B for the rifles

Foundry 124C for the skin

Foundry 67A for the sack

Foundry 45C for the Canteen

Foundry 66A for the belts, boots, pouches

Warpaints Claymore Blade for the metal bits

Repainted

         The boys here were painted like some one iced a cake with craft paint. No need to strip them. An old tooth brush took off 90%. A bath in the ultra sonic did the rest. 

Newly Painted

         Old glory miniatures. White primer. Always white primer!

 

         Because I am at work, in the office. There is no dipping or flocking. All that will happen when I get home on Saturday.

Regimental Fire And Fury "The Rebasing part I"

 

                          

          RF&F has stand after stand lined up next to one another. Whole units are designated by a sticker, 140th PA 8/5/4 or something. You could, but I am not painting individual state units. Most games need around 100 stands. One stand of Union soldiers could represent PA or NY or MA in any one of the scenarios.

          The rebasing is being done per RF&F standards. None are currently based correctly or the same. Plus all the flocking is different. Any one stand could be lined up next to any number of stands per the unit represented in the scenario. This being the nature of the game, I want all the basing and flocking to look the same. In that way making individual stands look like they all belong together.

          The other issue is some of the original basing had more than 3 dudes per stand. By limiting the dudes per stand to 3. I can get more stands out of what I currently have. More stands is a good thing! Remember each scenario takes 100 + stands a side.

         After the dudes sat/stood in water, their old bases melted away. The chunk of lead each dudes stands upon was cleaned up and checked that he would stand up. Everyone was then glued to 3mm plywoood bases, 1 x 3/4". The bases all came from Litko.

          After they dried, PVA went around their feet. With the help of VV all were flocked in Army Painter summer grass sawdust. The lot above was joined by the markers for RF&F. 

                             

What was left and the start of the South pile in the upper left.

Warmaster Weekend "Lizardmen"

 

          Here I go Again. I bought another army, 10mm Warmaster Lizardmen army. A mate was clearing out his collection which contained a partial Lizardmen force. I took it for 280, 20 USD a pack. Then went on ebay and grabbed a bunch more for around 18 a pack with shipping. All original stuff in bare lead, in blisters. 

1 Mage on Throne

2 Hero

1 dude on big ass lizard

5 Cold One

2 Kroxigors

1 Temple guard

6 Saurus

4 Shinks

2 Salamanders

3 Terradons

          Maybe next year they will get painted. Or if I am stuck in Fishkill all December.

          I will continue to hunt for units to kit out the list. Whatever extras I will dump on the Warmaster trading group page.

ACW RF&F Wheatfield scenario

 

        Finally moving on with the 15mm ACW. The goal this year was at the half way point to start 15mm ACW. As always I got distracted by something else. Nothing got done. I never even looked at the dudes. 

         Now that Tim is close, I have a gaming buddy who is interested in ACW. That fact jump started my ass into actually doing something. I will be hosting day 2 at Gettysburg, The WheatField.

        I had to pick a smaller gaming scenario. My collect did not survive storage and half were based for another system and 90% were parts from collections I had purchased way back. All this put a serious question as to how many stands could I field. It was good Tim choose this scenario as I bearly filled out the order of battle. 

This was also a great excuse to pull out the Geo-Hex. RF&F scenarios are 3D. Geo-Hex is an easy solution to representing all the varying terrain across the ACW theater.

         I went head first into the terrain box for teddy bear fur. There were many pieces kicking about.               One that closely fit the wheatfield's dimension was cut to fit. The oat field matched up well with a grass mat.

        Snake rail fencing. I had a ton of it at one time. Went looking and looking, I found the box it was in. I can't believe I sold it off. And I sold the stone walls. Here I go again making fencing. The fencing kits are from Battle Field Concepts. Those I kept and were in the box. 

        The base for the fence is wood strips from JoAnne's. They are easy to assemble after the first one. Once you get the spacing down, they are quick to build. I did 10 feet worth in 3 hours.

         I got the snake rail fencing done in time for Sunday's game. Assembled, not flocked. Then bright and earily Tim called to cancel. Shit happens. The game has been rescheduled two weeks out.

Regimental Fire and Fury "The beginning"

         The ACW collection is a mess. Half are based one way and the other half for RF&F. Way back when I started playing ACW at Cons. Jonny Reb seemed great. Then I played RF&F and everything sucked. RF&F is the best system. It is easy to learn, has tactical depth, and represents what the action appears in my head when I read about the ACW.  (It is great for AWI also) Yet very little of the collection can be fielded as RF&F.

        My collection of dudes are pieces and parts from others collections. I have painted zero ACW. This is the big barrier to getting into ACW. The amount of little fuckers you need to paint is insane. Plus you better plan on doing both sides as you will be hosting. At that time I was not a speed painter or interested in painting both sides of a game. A game where you need close to a hundred stands per side.

         That left me with buying painted dudes. As guys sold off or dumped or died, those collections became available. At that time I was not able to buy the whole thing. I was able to get what the big money dudes did not want. After they cherry picked the shit out of the collection. Which was fine. There was not a huge wargaming budget, I needed a cubic butt ton on Infantry for both sides. I took whatever scraps I could get.

          Now I have to sort, organize, and rebase at least half. 20% I will need to repaint. There is another 15-20% that I will have to buy.

      The easy way to get dudes off bases is to let them stand in water. If they were glued down with PVA they pop right off. If the are on plywood, it falls apart. If they were based on card, well that melts away too. Sadly if you stuck them down with super glue, they need to sit for longer. They will pop off after a while.

        Here are the dudes that came right off in less than 5 minutes. The dudes above can sit, while I sort and rebase the others.

         Examples of the dudes that are so bad they require repainting.

Dudes being sorted

Piles of popped off dudes

Dudes to be stripped.

Back in Fishkill

 

          The Fishkill onsite engineer resigned. That bastard! Now I will be going to Fishkill until we find a new engineer. My sorry ass will then have to stay and baby sitting/train whoever we hire. Son of a Bitch, I hope he hits a deer.

         At least there is an office on site. And in that office I can sit and paint the day away. There will be a ton of minis getting painted. This job is a babysitting evolution.

 I needed a lamp to paint under.

Your Momma is a Sallie part IX

The XVIIIth legion

4 Rhinos and a Vinnie. Just cause I am a crack smoking fool there are flames.

         Whenever you zoom all the way in, the first thing to mind is "what a shit job."

The last of the boarding/breacher marines with a Libbie looking to take one in the teeth.